[R] HMS Good hope, 1:300, Fantom Model

[slimak]

Hello modelers

I've been going to this forum for some time now, as a best knowledge base about paper ship builds. Now I would like to present here my current build of HMS Good Hope, and maybe help someone else as well. I hope that English is ok here, otherwise I can try Polish with help of the translator, or use my mother language Slovak. 

I own both scales of this model. Decision to build the smaller one was done because... well, because it's smaller and I don't have space on my desk and rack to build the bigger one. I keep the bigger one as a reference book when in need to check some issues.



Started as usual with the frames, nothing special here, except that I used the stick glue for stick the frames on cardboard. I ended, even when really careful, with longer frame in length about 0,8-0,9 mm. Nothing that sandpaper can't fix, when one is aware of the issue.



When doing the toilets, I had the same issue as yogi in his build. Here I can say, that it seems to be because the upper (front) deck is narrower as the main deck, plus the rounding of the deck itself is counting here too. Nothing that 220 grid sandpaper can't solve. Photos are describing it. On the first and fourth photo I marked with pencil how much I had to grind off. The middle section, part 4, was twice for right side (no left side part), simple cut and gluing it in correct position solved it. Anyway, it's almost not visible on place.

   

Final state of the deck is ok after these correction.



I impregnated all cardboard pages of the model with nitro varnish (nitro lakier). On the main deck is visible strange colour difference, that you already discussed for this model on the forum.



So that's all for the beginning.

[Karas]

Thats great, nice to see another Fantom Model fan around, heheeheh.
I can see you have not only the GH, but also the Malaya and Suffolk. Nice
Regarding stick glue, theres a way to avoid soft paper distortion, you need to apply the glue to the cardboard instead, and then quickly press your soft sheet with the part onto the glued surface.
So far, everything looks perfect, and i really like your attitude. There is nothing that sandpaper cant resolve: ] Hehehe. Good luck, ill be watching your progress!!!!1

[Piterski]

I will be interested to see this report as it promises to be interesting. What is the cardboard you used to underlay the skeleton? It seems to be something similar to grey cardboard but yet it is whiter. Please provide a link to a shop where it can be purchased.

[slimak]

Hallo

@Karas: Your great Suffolk build inspired me, to buy some FM models. 
I used stick glue exactly as you wrote, as I do always. In CZ/SK we are using mostly water-based glues (Hercules), so are familiar with the paper water absorbency and the expansion done by it. I even try to do it again (I use scan for frames usually, of course measured if it has the same dimensions as the original), but turn the cardboard by 90 degrees, if it could not be done by the cardboard expansion in the direction of the wood fibers. With the exactly same result. So I resignated and used the scalpel and sand paper.

@Piterski: I have it for more like 10 years, still enough stock for myself. Bought it from some modeller / models seller in Slovakia. It is possible, that he had it from Poland, but I haven't any idea from where. It is a bit tougher and more solid as "beer cardboard" (podpivník in SVK), but still easy to cut and sand. If I will find the same one somewhere, I will let you know.

[slimak]

And the current progress of the build...

Underwater part of the hull was harder to be build on the bow and on the stern (obviously). It's slightly visible on the sun a small color difference between some of the parts groups. 



Bow plating is now complete. I made more mistakes and inaccuracies here, some are even quite visible. Visible are some "collateral damage" on the footrests, that I will repair during the model finalization (otherwise, I will need to repeat it many, many times, as I know myself...  ).

  
  

Bow is currently stick only to the deck. I glued it slightly more to the left (port) side.

  

Now I must add an additional partition part "W19" made from the scan, to have an additional surface, for glue the next side part. 



To have some rest from the hard part of the build, I relaxed on first from many hatches.

 

I would like to make some of them open. Do you know what was under them? I can't find any photo from that era of those.  

I have one more question. On both sides are cover rooms ("schowki"). I saw on yogi's build that he cut the doors and put there some... hangings? Was it like that? Weren't these rooms just open, without any cover on the entrance? 

[żółtodziób]

Masz jakby polski nick. Imię też... dlaczego piszesz po angielsku na polskim forum ?

[970]

bo to bardziej światowo jest 

[slimak]

bo to bardziej światowo jest 

Bo jestem Slovák a po polsku nie mowie bardzo dobre. 

[FantomModel]

Hi Slimak

Answer to your second question: these covers were for hammocks or wash deck equipment. These "doors" were done with canvas, you can keep them closed or rolled up and keep as open.

I do not have photo exactly from HMS Good Hope for these sides covers, but I have it for some other British cruiser from this time period.

First question for open hatches, there were nothing under. There were skylights or ventilation hatches, think about it as for open windows, just placed horizontally.

Good luck with construction my model.

[Piterski]

Jan if you manage to get hold of such cardboard I will buy it for sure, I am running out of my stock and good material is always worth having.
As for the workmanship, the quality of the gluing is of a high standard, only I wonder if the colour of the retouch is not a little too dark.

[piotr d]

Some deck openings were skylights, usually recognisable by slant and windows, although those in gun blast area were of plain steel. Covers of those could be lifted and locked at desired angle to allow air. Others were for ladders, when used fitted with guardrails and handrails, at least larger ones, and some also with canvas dodger. Ladderways leading to officers' quarters aft had more elaborate and polished fittings going above usual specification. 

There were also other types, like escape trunks or hatches for loading or delivering ammunition over magazines, with appropriate fittings. Ventilation trunks with simple or mushroom covers were used although not enough weatherproof, and there was a push to replace them by mushroom vents, or simple vents and openings in superstructure raised high enough to prevent water ingestion.

[edit:]
also, opening of ventilation trunks and escape trunks when used for ventilation were covered with grating usually of wire type.

[żółtodziób]

Bo jestem Slovák a po polsku nie mowie bardzo dobre.  Tongue

V tom prípade ahoj, slovenský brat (preložil Google prekladač)
Na preklad do poľštiny môžeš použiť google

[slimak]

Na preklad do poľštiny môžeš použiť google

Tak, napisałem to na początku pierwszego posta.   Czasami może to prowadzić do błędów lub zabawnych zdań dla czytelnika w języku ojczystym, jeśli nie mam możliwości sprawdzenia tłumaczenia.  Ale mogę spróbować

@Fantom, @piotr d:  Dzięki barzo za wyjaśnienie. 
Więc spróbowałem dodać coś tutaj. Nie będę tam stawiać mioteł i wiader, prawdopodobnie byłoby to niepotrzebne.

  

Nie mogę się już doczekać, aż skończę burty, ta część po prostu nie jest moją bajką.

  

  

Nie mogę się już doczekać, kiedy zacznę układać te wszystkie drobiazgi na pokładzie.

[Lukee]

No gratulacje! Piszesz jak prawdziwy Polak 
A i kleisz zacnie czyli świetnie 
Będzie kawał pięknego okrętu.

[Piterski]

Wykonanie super

[slimak]

Witam. 
Prace postępują. 

   

Jedna para kazamat, część 53, miała krótszy bok. Trzeba było przyciąć dach i dno.

 

Tak to wygląda już przyklejone na burtach.

   

Każda najmniejsza niedokładność popełniona podczas klejenia odbiła się później na innych elementach. Niektóre rzeczy naprawiono lub zakryto, niektóre nie aż tak bardzo. Na przykład na tylnym mostku miałem 2-milimetrową szczelinę między między ścianą a pokładem, co był  był mój błąd. 

  

Muszę jeszcze poprawić połączenie między spodem a burtami przynajmniej w jednym miejscu.
 
   

[Hastur]

Wychodzi bardzo dobrze. Trzymam kciuki za powodzenie projektu.